Robert Parker 89 - 91 Points: "The 2015 Morey St Denis Village has a little more fruit concentration compared directly with the exquisite Chambolle-Musigny Village, the fruit darker and perhaps without quite the same degree of transparency. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe, sweet tannin counterbalanced by crisp acidity, a subtle confit-like note that emerges towards the finish and with fine salinity that makes you come back for another sip. Très Morey in style, this is another very impressive village cru courtesy of Taupernot-Merme.
"The main difficulty we had in 2015 was the drought from mid-June to end-July," Romain Taupenot told me when I visited his winery in Morey-Saint-Denis, directly over the road from Christophe Perrot-Minot. "There was a big concern about mildew pressure. The only way to fight against disease when you farm organically is to use SO2 and at this time, because the heat was high, it started to burn the leaves. So should we keep on spraying and risk, or take the risk of development of mildew whilst maintaining leaf cover? So I used SO2 just once every two treatments in the vineyard. This worked perfectly well except in Saint Romain for the white, where we lost around 30% of the crop. In 2015, as we had a drought with a lot of millerandage. There was some rain in August, but we found the berries did not expand because of the thickness of the skins, so there was a consistent level of concentration. I was concerned about the balance of the wine, especially with the acidity level, but when we picked the grapes from 8 September (in Corton), we noticed from the alcohol level and acidity were under the final result. For example, most of the wines came in at 12.5-12.8% alcohol and 4.2-4.4 grams per liter total acidity, but by the end of the fermentation we went up to 13.9% for the Corton-Rognets and a majority around 13.5%. The Gevrey-Chambertin Village was a bit lower because the drought retarded the sugar accumulation. The yeast was a little more productive in 2015, needing 17.5 grams of sugar instead of 18 grams per one degree of alcohol. We actually found some acidities were higher after fermentation and because the malic was so low, the acidity level did not drop much and this maintained the freshness. Therefore, you do not feel the high alcohol. It's a compromise between 2009 and 2010, because of the heat and precision respectively. Everything is de-stemmed in 2015 with no whole bunch, matured in no more than 20% for the Côte de Beaune, 25% for the village cru and up to 40% for the grand cru with a light toasting from the five different cooperages."
I really admired these wines from Romain and Virginie Taupenot. In some ways, they represent the kind of wines, the level of quality that they have been threatening to do in recent vintages. What I loved was the purity of fruit, the way that any over-exuberance of over-ripeness was mastered, even through relative to other growers, they were exactly the earliest to go out and pick. What marks the 2015s is a consistency across the board: very few barrel samples falling below expectations, most of them surpassing them."
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