Robert Parker 93-95 Points
"The 2015 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts was showing some reduction on the nose, although there is clearly plenty of ripe red cherry and cranberry fruit underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a silver bead of acidity. This comes across as being very harmonious with good backbone; saline in the mouth with a persistent, peppery aftertaste that lasts for over a minute. This is simply a Beaux Monts from the top-drawer.
It’s a girl! A girl! That might not sound like massive news, since many of us procreate at one stage or another and history has proven that frequency of X-X chromosomes is roughly equal to X-Y chromosomes. We’re split 50:50 boy and girl. However, some families disproportionately lean to one side or another (and I write that as the eldest of four boys). The Mugneret family in Vosne-Romanée gave birth to girls from 1929 until Marie-Christine’s grandson arrived in November this year. In a nice twist, Alec Seysses told me that his second child was born a girl. Apparently this is an equally rare event and upon racking his brain, Alec said it was decades since the last female Seysses. The timing could have been better. This “harvest baby” was born on 14 September, just two days after the picking had finished.
“We started on the 7 September,” Alec explained. “We were expecting a rather good crop both in terms of quality and quantity, although we ended up with only three barrels more than in 2013. We were lucky to get water during the season and the only time we were really getting short was around 2 weeks before the picking. We used quite a high proportion of whole bunches because we had never seen such a clean vintage. I was on the truck watching the sorting. It was like a holiday for me. We used on average around 90% whole cluster, maybe a little less on the négoçiant wine. The malolactic fermentation finished a little early as the malic was fairly early, so we could barrel down earlier. The riper side [of the 2015s] was showing more in October than today [in late November].”
I was very impressed by the 2015s from Domaine Dujac. They were generally very fresh and precise, reflective of their respective terroirs. The Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Combottes punched well above its weight, which really should not be a surprise because it is a supremely well-situated premier cru. Only the Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers suggested just a hint of sur-maturité on the nose and I felt there was just a little volatility here at the moment. Perhaps that was accentuated by the precision shown elsewhere among Dujac's range? Whilst I often found myself preferring the Clos Saint-Denis to the Clos de la Roche when the two are served side-by-side, here I found a little more depth and complexity imbued upon the latter, one of the standout wines in 2015. I should also mention the white wines from Dujac because they are written about less often, but they seemed to achieve commendable nerve and race despite the warmth of the growing season. I find that their use of Nomblot concrete eggs imparts a little more austerity that counterbalanced tropical notes that could have seeped into their whites and they are well worth checking out. All in all, an outstanding set of 2015s from Dujac. I just hope Alec can get a bit more sleep during the coming weeks. It does get easier...a bit."
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