Domaine Robert Chevillon 2016 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots

Description

Robert Parker 93+ Points: "Since fully 1.5 hectares of vines produced a mere four barrels of wine, it's no surprise that the 2016 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots is preternaturally concentrated, and tasted blind I mistook it for the domaine's Cailles. Unfurling in the glass with notes of rose petals, violets, orange rind and ripe cherries, the wine is medium to full-bodied, deep and strikingly intense, structured around rich, velvety tannins that caress the palate, and concluding with a long, beautifully lively finish. Readers who can find a few bottles shouldn't hesitate.

Bertrand Chevillon always pops a mature vintage after his barrel tasting. I am a crap blind taster. Too many reference points is my excuse. I have a preternatural knack of getting it wrong. This year I nailed it! The 1999 Les Vaucrains! I was expecting a prize…Argos vouchers…a speedboat…Clos de Tart…Instead I had to make do with congratulations and gloating over John Gilman, his next appointment, who apparently got the 1993 Les Pruliers wrong (though John is a much better blind taster than I). But you know, tasting these older vintages, as much as I appreciate the task, it often highlights how the wines have improved so much in recent years. That is unquestionably the case at this address. Tasting the 1999 I observed how the tannins are more filigree compared to the last three of our vintage; how the fruit is so much purer and the terroir more expressive. Of course in 2106, the appellation, particularly the southern sector, was severely affected by the frost, and the domaine lost between 50% and 70% of the crop depending upon vineyard, particularly those toward Prémeaux. Picking here was between 24 September and 3 October. Bernard pointed out that he found the older vines were more resistant to frost. Most of his cuvées came in between 12.5% and 13.0% natural alcohol, so he only chaptalized some of them by a small degree (literally). I just loved these wines. In my opinion, Chevillon has become the leading grower in Nuits-Saint-Georges with a raft of superlative wines that would get more attention if cognoscenti were not so obsessed about other appellations blessed with grand crus. This vintage is not, or could not be consistent because of the frost damage, and therefore, a couple of crus such as the Roncières lacked the vividness and nascent energy of say, the brilliant Vaucrains (his best cru?) and Les Saint-Georges. These wines come highly recommended."

Burghound 90-92 points: "A more deeply pitched nose offers up notes of plum, dark raspberry and more evident earth and spice influences. The sleek and mineral-inflected flavors possess a lovely underlying tension while delivering fine depth and persistence on the firm, moderately austere and balanced finale."

 



Collections: France, French - Burgundy, Wine

Type: WINE


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