The Old Elk Wheated Bourbon, made by Greg Metze of MGP fame, aged 5 years, is particularly wheat-forward, using 45% wheat, which Metze notes is two to three times higher than the norm, along with 51% corn and 4% malted barley.
Whiskey writer Fred Minnick calls Metze “perhaps the greatest rye distiller of our time,” noting that he’s responsible for the majority of the rye whiskey on the shelves today.
"Old Elk Bourbon is created by master distiller Greg Metze, formerly of MGP, for Old Elk Distillery in Fort Collins, Colorado. Two unique aspects of its production are a much higher proportion of malted barley than is typical in a bourbon (along with corn and rye), as well as a slower proofing process for bringing the barrel-strength whiskey down to its final proof for bottling. It is bottled at 44% abv."The Distiller
The Whiskey Advocate: Southern"Based in Fort Collins, Colorado, Old Elk produces just 150 barrels of whiskey per year, although it’s in the process of building a huge new distillery. The bulk of its whiskeys currently in bottle were distilled at MGP Distillery in Lawrenceburg, Indiana. That’s not just because MGP has the capacity; Old Elk’s master distiller, Greg Metze, was a long-time employee at the Lawrenceburg facility, holding the title of master distiller when he resigned in June 2016. While still employed at MGP, Metze designed Old Elk’s custom mashbills and oversaw its first distillations. Now mature, these whiskeys have been nurtured by him from start to finish. . . .
But it’s the straight wheat whiskey that may be most exciting to whiskey lovers. Wheat whiskey—which must be made with at least 51% wheat—is a tiny category; the only major players are Bernheim, made at Heaven Hill Distillery, and Woodford Reserve’s wheat whiskey, with a handful of craft distilleries also producing the style. As Old Elk releases 48,000 bottles for 2020, it aims to put the style on the map for American whiskey lovers.
Metze knew the wheat whiskey, made with 95% soft red winter wheat and 5% malted barley, was good even before it was barreled. “It was really, really crisp and really clean coming off the still,” he explains. “White distillates don’t have any barrel note in them so generally you’re looking for any type of a quality defect that would be related to either the grain that was used, the water that was used, the way it was fermented, so forth and so on. You’re making a determination of whether the product is worthy of putting into a barrel…knowing that as it matures, it’s going to take on the barrel notes which further enhance the quality.” Old Elk’s wheat whiskey is aged for six years, because, as Metze notes, “It is less robust than bourbon, and as a result it took more age in the barrel to acquire more of the barrel note to really carry the overall product.”
A rye expert like Metze is well-suited to creating wheat whiskey. Rye is famously difficult to ferment, and Metze says wheat is no different. “They both have a real propensity for foaming, and anytime you have foaming during fermentation, you’re actually drawing air in the fermentation, which causes oxidation and actually reduces some of the alcohols that you’re producing in the aldehydes and esters, which if you overdo it, actually becomes a quality defect,” he explains. “When you ferment whiskey, you actually count on the CO2 that’s produced as part of fermentation to create a blanket on top of your fermenter. Normally you’re fermenting with a blanket of CO2 right on top, which is produced naturally through the metabolic process. When you have the foaming, it disrupts that blanket and that’s what allows the fermenter to actually draw air into the product.” With his decades of experience, Metze is adept at controlling foaming during fermentation, allowing him to produce such a clean wheat distillate."