Robert Parker 96 Points: "From a plot close to the Wehlener Sonnenuhr, the fuder-fermented 2017 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Rotlay is still discreet on the clear, fine and elegant nose. The palate is refined, slightly crunchy and salty, revealing great finesse, fine mineral grip and a persistently salty, racy-piquant finish. Tasted in March 2019.
In March, I tasted two vintages at the new and stylish tasting facility of Selbach-Oster between Zeltingen and Ürzig, 2017 and 2018, two very early vintages with very different characters. In 2018, the harvest began on September 3; in 2017, it was only a few days later, around mid-September, so still extremely early. The rain in August and early September 2017 did not create any serious problems, according to Johannes Selbach, but instead caused a very healthy botrytis in late September and early October that enabled the domaine to produce a series of great, highly concentrated but vital and precise noble sweet wines in 2017. Readers should try some of the many great Spätlesen and Auslesen and one or the other of the other higher-predicate wines up to TBA. Not all the Kabinett wines are as stunning as the Zeltinger and the Wehlener Sonnenuhr or the Zeltinger Schlossberg. The 2018s are different in character, but the quality seems pretty close to 2017 here. 2018 basically had a higher ripeness and lower acidity because of the overwhelmingly healthy 2018 fruit, yet it doesn't have the concentration and structure of 2017. Like the year before, in 2018 the Spätlesen and Auslesen give the finest wines of the vintage that again brought a few noble sweet wines so far. The dry wines are less convincing here—they're good wines, but they can't withstand the comparison with the fruity and sweet wines."
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