Frédéric Esmonin 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Jouises Vieilles Vignes 750 ml

Frédéric Esmonin has quietly built one of Gevrey-Chambertin's most reliable addresses, and the 2023 vintage may be the best expression of that reliability yet. This is the domaine's Vieilles Vignes bottling from Les Jouises, a village-level parcel planted to old vines that consistently outperforms its classification. In a vintage that early reports describe as one of the strongest the Esmonin family has produced in over a decade, this bottle offers real depth and precision at a price point well below the domaine's Premier and Grand Cru holdings — an honest, old-vine window into Gevrey character.

Origins & Craftsmanship

Domaine Frédéric Esmonin is a true family operation based in Gevrey-Chambertin, run by Frédéric alongside his father, André, and mother, Michèle. The family has farmed their roughly 10 acres of vineyards for generations, historically selling fruit to négociant houses including Drouhin, Jadot, and Leroy before beginning to bottle under their own label in 1988. Since then, the domaine has assembled an enviable portfolio of sites, from Grand Cru parcels in Ruchottes-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, and Chambertin-Clos de Bèze down through Premier Cru holdings such as Estournelles St-Jacques and Lavaux St-Jacques.

Les Jouises Vieilles Vignes sits just below Premier Cru classification but is farmed with the same discipline as the estate's grander sites, drawing on old vines believed to be in the range of 65 to 70 years of age. Grapes are picked only once they reach full phenolic ripeness, then pressed gently on a bladder press to protect the fruit. A short cold maceration adds an extra layer of aromatic dimension before the wine is aged roughly 14 to 17 months in French oak barrels from the Allier and Nevers forests, coopered by Radoux and Berthomieu — two of Burgundy's most respected barrel makers.

2023 was, by the domaine's own account, an exceptional harvest. Frédéric Esmonin has described the vintage as combining the best qualities of 2018 and 2022, and early trade reports call it one of the estate's strongest showings since 2010 — wines built around concentrated, well-delineated fruit that speak clearly to their individual terroirs.

Critics Reviews

No independently verified critic score for this specific 2023 Les Jouises Vieilles Vignes bottling has surfaced yet across major Burgundy critics — a common situation for a wine this recently released and priced. Earlier vintages of this cuvée have scored consistently well: Wine-Searcher's aggregate critic data shows 2022 at 90/100 and 2021 at 89/100, and Allen Meadows (Burghound) rated the 2017 vintage 88 points, describing it as aromatically similar to the domaine's Clos Prieur bottling with notes of lavender and talc, vibrant if not especially deep. These figures reflect prior vintages only and should not be read as scores for the 2023 release. We'll update this section as 2023-specific reviews are published.

Tasting Profile

Nose: Expect the old-vine character this site is known for — a red-fruited, slightly more structured profile than the domaine's straight village Gevrey, with floral lift and an undertone of forest floor.

Palate: Given the strength of the 2023 harvest, anticipate good concentration and energy, with the fine-grained tannin and bright acidity typical of Esmonin's cold-maceration approach.

Finish: Likely medium-to-long, with the mineral, savory edge that distinguishes Gevrey's old-vine village sites from their more overtly fruity neighbors.

(This profile reflects the domaine's established house style and the vintage's known character rather than a confirmed independent tasting note for this specific bottling.)

Quick Overview

Food Pairings

This wine's structure and old-vine concentration make it a natural partner for roast duck breast, herb-crusted rack of lamb, or coq au vin. It also pairs beautifully with mushroom-forward dishes — think wild mushroom risotto or a tart with Gruyère and thyme — as well as aged Comté or other firm alpine cheeses.