Click the button below to be notified when this product is back in stock.
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
Pre-Phylloxera is genuinely one of the rarest, most extraordinary Barbera wines in the world. The wine is produced, in the estate's own words, from "one of the last archaic vineyards of Langhe region, an open-air museum from a time gone by, with vines older than a hundred years." These vines grow on 100% Vitis Vinifera roots, propagated by traditional methods — meaning they were never grafted onto American rootstock, as is otherwise standard and often required, but instead survived the great phylloxera plague of the late 19th century that devastated nearly every other vineyard in Europe. The plot itself is a tiny 0.25 hectares in Berri, in the commune of La Morra, at roughly 520 to 550 meters elevation, on sandy-chalky soil that provides natural protection against phylloxera — the key reason these vines endured. Yields are minimal, producing just 1,500 to 1,800 bottles annually of a genuinely singular Barbera.
The wine ages 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels, slowly developing primary aromas without overwhelming them with wood, bottled at approximately 14.3% ABV.
Kerin O'Keefe awarded a remarkable 96 Points for this exact 2023 vintage, calling the wine "gorgeous, starting with its aromas of violet, crushed blueberry, spice and charcuterie," noting it's "made with ungrafted vines that are over 100-years old," with "great depth, personality and structure," delivering "flavors of succulent Morello cherry, orange zest, ground pepper and the same seasoned meat sensation from the nose." Jeb Dunnuck also scored the 2023 vintage 96 Points, finding "greater depth and richness" than the previous vintage, with "aromas of red plum skin, black pepper oils, and dark fruit," calling it "full-bodied but remarkably balanced," with "a plush, velvety texture supported by bright acidity," concluding it's "powerful yet controlled, a distinctive expression of Barbera from these historic vines." For genuine house-style context, the estate's own tasting notes describe "a bright, rich ruby color with intense purplish highlights," the aroma "enveloping, aromatic and deep with noticeable spices on first impression and raspberry, strawberry and ripe cherry notes in background," the palate "well structured, fresh and the acidity is excellently balanced, the tannins texture is embracing and flavors remind you of sour cherries, blackberries and prunes." This is genuinely one of the most singular, pedigreed Barberas on Earth — a real living piece of pre-phylloxera Piedmont, in a bottle.
Elvio Cogno 2023 Pre-Phylloxera Barbera d'Alba is produced by Elvio Cogno, based in Novello, Piedmont, Italy. The wine is made entirely from Barbera, sourced from a tiny 0.25-hectare plot in the Berri area of La Morra, at roughly 520-550 meters elevation, on sandy-chalky soil. The vines are over 100 years old (some sources cite up to 130-140 years) and growing on their own original, ungrafted roots — survivors of the phylloxera plague.
The wine ages 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels. Annual production is limited to roughly 1,500-1,800 bottles. Bottled at approximately 14-14.5% ABV, 750ml.
Kerin O'Keefe — 96 Points:
"The Elvio Cogno 2023 Barbera d'Alba Pre-phylloxera is gorgeous, starting with its aromas of violet, crushed blueberry, spice and charcuterie. Made with ungrafted vines that are over 100-years old, it has great depth, personality and structure, delivering flavors of succulent Morello cherry, orange zest, ground pepper and the same seasoned meat sensation from the nose."
Jeb Dunnuck — 96 Points (2023 vintage):
"The 2023 Barbera d'Alba Pre-Phylloxera offers greater depth and richness, with aromas of red plum skin, black pepper oils, and dark fruit. Full-bodied but remarkably balanced, it has a plush, velvety texture supported by bright acidity... Powerful yet controlled, this is a distinctive expression of Barbera from these historic vines."
Elvio Cogno (official tasting note, house style):
"A bright, rich ruby color with intense purplish highlights. The aroma is enveloping, aromatic and deep with noticeable spices on first impression and raspberry, strawberry and ripe cherry notes in background. Finish with pleasant harmonies of wild flowers. On the palate it is well structured, fresh and the acidity is excellently balanced, the tannins texture is embracing and flavors remind you of sour cherries, blackberries and prunes."
Nose
Bright, rich ruby with intense purplish highlights. Violet and crushed blueberry lead, joined by spice and charcuterie, alongside red plum skin, black pepper oil, and dark fruit.
Palate
Full-bodied and powerful, yet remarkably balanced, with succulent Morello cherry, orange zest, and ground pepper carrying real depth, framed by vibrant acidity and firm, structured tannin.
Finish
Long and savory, closing with seasoned meat character and wild floral harmony — genuinely cellar-worthy.
| Category | Details |
|---|---|
| Appellation | Barbera d'Alba DOC, La Morra, Piedmont, Italy |
| Variety | 100% Barbera |
| Vintage | 2023 |
| Producer | Elvio Cogno |
| Vineyard | Berri, La Morra — 0.25 hectares, 520-550m elevation |
| Vine Age | Over 100 years — ungrafted, own-rooted, pre-phylloxera |
| Soils | Sandy-chalky |
| Aging | 12 months, large Slavonian oak barrels |
| ABV | ~14-14.5% |
| Production | ~1,500-1,800 bottles annually |
| Critics | Kerin O'Keefe 96 · Jeb Dunnuck 96 |
| Style / Identity | A genuinely singular, extraordinarily rare Barbera — a living piece of pre-phylloxera Piedmont |
| Aromas & Flavors | Violet, crushed blueberry, Morello cherry, orange zest, ground pepper |
| Bottle Size | 750ml |
Bottle Size: All bottles are 750ML/700ML unless otherwise noted.
21 and Over: Adult Signature Required
Your cart is empty
Start shopping
