Françoise Bedel Entre Ciel et Terre Extra Brut Champagne NV 750ml

Françoise Bedel is one of Champagne’s pioneering biodynamic growers. In Crouttes-sur-Marne, at the western edge of the Vallée de la Marne, the heartland of Pinot Meunier, she took over her family’s estate in 1979, when the family had been selling its grapes to local merchants, and she began converting to biodynamics in 1996, inspired by a visit with Jean-Pierre Fleury, “at a time when there was still a sense of tin-foil haberdashery surrounding the whole topic.” Her 8.4-hectare estate is now certified organic and biodynamic, farmed with hand work, herbal preparations, and lunar schedules, and run day to day by her son Vincent Deseaubeau under her watchful eye.

Entre Ciel et Terre, “between heaven and earth,” is the estate’s signature cuvée: a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Noir from 30-to-70-year-old vines planted on clay-limestone soils at 150 to 200 meters. The grapes are hand-harvested, with free-run and press wine separated, fermented with natural yeasts in enameled tanks, then aged five years on the lees, riddled and disgorged by hand, and bottled with a modest dosage of 4.55 g/L and just 30 mg/L of sulfur. The blend varies by release: older releases were roughly equal parts of the three grapes, while recent ones are about 50% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Meunier, and 15% Pinot Noir. It’s 12.5% ABV.

The importer describes it as “a wine that seduces with its subtle blend of vinosity and freshness,” with a “slender, vinous, precise, straight and persistent character on chalky flavours.” Another retailer’s tasting note: “The nose has delicate aromas of white fruit, yellow fruit and rhubarb, enhanced by floral and finely spiced notes. The mouth is lively on the attack, rich and ample on a floral register, with toasted notes enhanced by a touch of liquorice. The finish is lively and the freshness is reinforced by fresh citrus aromas (lemon, grapefruit).” Vinous reviewed the release that was mostly 2015: “A rather shy nose does not give away much more than a hint of salty shortbread fingers and red apple. The palate has a fine mousse and an edge of caramelized apple, adding a slight but pleasant bitterness. The palate is compact, has fine mousse and the buttery autolysis of crumbly Scottish shortbread. The finish is of mellow red apple with gentle 2015 freshness.” The Wine Advocate, reviewing a different release, found it “filigreed, finessed and elegant on the palate: a lean, pure and stimulatingly dry yet mouth-filling cuvée with a more airy rather than earthy character... a lovely gastronomic Champagne with a distinctive character,” adding that it is “perhaps a bit too austere for some of our readers.” A retailer lists a Wine Spectator score of 91 (release not specified), and Wine & Spirits noted that “that extended aging has brought the wine’s fruit and minerality into a sweet-savory harmony.”

It’s a dry, savory, vinous, small-grower Champagne with real bottle age, for customers who like Champagne with food and character instead of a fruity, sweet aperitif. Serve it at 10-12°C in a white wine glass, with fish in a butter sauce, shellfish, roast chicken, and soft cheeses, or as a distinctive aperitif.

Origins & Craftsmanship

Françoise Bedel Entre Ciel et Terre Extra Brut is produced by Champagne Françoise Bedel et Fils in Crouttes-sur-Marne, Vallée de la Marne, Champagne, France (Françoise Bedel and Vincent Deseaubeau), certified organic and biodynamic, from Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Noir from 30-70-year-old vines on clay-limestone, hand-harvested and fermented with natural yeasts in enameled tanks. Aged 5 years on the lees, hand-riddled and hand-disgorged. Dosage 4.55 g/L, 30 mg/L SO2. 12.5% ABV, 750ml.

Critics Reviews

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate (Stephan Reinhardt) — 92 Points:
“Filigreed, finessed and elegant on the palate, this is a lean, pure and stimulatingly dry yet mouth-filling cuvée with a more airy rather than earthy character. The finish is dry, firm, yeasty and full of character... it’s a lovely gastronomic Champagne with a distinctive character.”

Vinous (Anne Krebiehl MW) — 91 Points:
“The palate is compact, has fine mousse and the buttery autolysis of crumbly Scottish shortbread. The finish is of mellow red apple.”

Decanter (Yohan Castaing) — 91 Points:
“Menthol, spices, orchard fruit and spring flowers add up to a lively, energetic and delicate bouquet. Tense and taut, the perfectly balanced palate displays a laser-like texture. This is all complexity and finesse — a very interesting Champagne.”

Wine Spectator — 91 Points

Wine & Spirits — 90 Points:
“That extended aging has brought the wine’s fruit and minerality into a sweet-savory harmony.”

Wine-Searcher aggregate: 90/100 across 20 critic scores

Importer tasting note:
“The nose has delicate aromas of white fruit, yellow fruit and rhubarb, enhanced by floral and finely spiced notes. The mouth is lively on the attack, rich and ample on a floral register, with toasted notes and a touch of liquorice. The finish is lively, with fresh citrus (lemon, grapefruit).”

For the Origins line, I’d say “Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier, and Pinot Noir (proportions vary by release)” so nothing in the copy depends on a specific bottling.

Tasting Profile

Nose
Delicate white and yellow fruit, rhubarb, and red apple, with floral and fine spice notes, and a hint of salty shortbread.

Palate
Lively and compact, with a fine mousse, floral richness, toasted notes, a touch of liquorice, and caramelized apple with a slight bitterness.

Finish
Lively, with fresh citrus (lemon, grapefruit), chalk, and mellow red apple.

Quick Overview

Food Pairings

• Fish with butter sauce
• Shellfish and oysters
• Roast chicken
• Soft cheeses

Serving Note

Serve at about 10-12°C in a white wine glass rather than a flute.