Gosset 2012 Celebris Blanc de Blancs Champagne 750ml

Celebris is Gosset’s prestige cuvée, made only in the best years and in tiny quantities, first released in 1995 with the 1988 vintage. The 2012 Celebris Blanc de Blancs is a landmark: it’s the first vintage Blanc de Blancs Gosset has ever made, from the highly lauded 2012 vintage, with an extra-long maturation on the lees. Gosset, based in Aÿ and widely considered Champagne’s oldest wine house, usually avoids malolactic fermentation and builds Champagnes with tension and longevity, and this one is no exception.

Cellar master Odilon de Varine explained the idea behind it: “In 2012, we had superb Chardonnays having a truly chalky and limestone-infused character, so I set out to retain, but especially highlight, that aspect by producing a blanc de blancs.” The blend came from “a relatively large number of villages,” including some “that we would not normally have thought would make the cut for such a prestige cuvée, such as Passy-sur-Marne.” The wine aged nine years on the lees, was disgorged in March 2022, and is bottled at a Brut dosage of about 7 g/L. Only 15,000 bottles were made.

Critics responded with real enthusiasm. Falstaff’s Peter Moser scored it 96 Points, finding “fresh yellow apples with white flowers in the background, nuances of grapefruit and fresh cookie, lemony and minty aspects,” with “precise, racy acidity,” “fine savoury notes,” and “mineral and salty nuances on the finish,” calling it “a multi-faceted food wine.” Falstaff’s Anne Krebiehl MW noted that “bright lemon freshness sings throughout and dominates the long finish.” Decanter’s Yohan Castaing scored it 95: “The initial nose is quite shy, but coaxing reveals a character expressing white fruit such as pear and spring flowers enhanced by pastry and citrusy notes. The palate has a suave, even mouthcoating texture and remarkable depth that is beautifully sustained by chalky salinity and a gorgeous grapefruit taste.” Vinous also scored it 95, calling it “a powerful, explosive Champagne” that “hits the palate with layers of exotic, resonant Chardonnay fruit,” with “savory, floral and earthy notes” adding dimension and “a dense, potent Blanc de Blancs for the dinner table.” The house describes “a color golden with emerald reflections,” a nose with “a hint of menthol spicing up the fruity aromas of pink grapefruit and frangipane,” a palate with “a touch of lemon,” and “a spicy touch of candied ginger and star anise.” Another tasting note finds “a medley of French classic desserts, think baked apples with salted butter and tarte tatin.” This is a rare, collectible, food-oriented blanc de blancs with years of life ahead.

Origins & Craftsmanship

Gosset 2012 Celebris Blanc de Blancs is produced by Champagne Gosset, based in Aÿ, Champagne, France. It is 100% Chardonnay from the 2012 vintage, sourced from a relatively large number of villages, and aged nine years on the lees. It was disgorged in March 2022 with a Brut dosage of about 7 g/L. Only 15,000 bottles were produced. Bottled at 12% ABV, 750ml.

Critics Reviews

Peter Moser, Falstaff — 96 Points (October 2022):
“Light yellow gold colour with silver reflections, very fine, persistent mousse. Fresh yellow apples with white flowers in the background, nuances of grapefruit and fresh cookie, lemony and minty aspects. Complex, ripe orchard fruit, a hint of lime, precise, racy acidity, fine savoury notes, nuances of baked apple and nougat, fresh lemony but also mineral and salty nuances on the finish, very good length, a multi-faceted food wine.”

Yohan Castaing, Decanter — 95 Points (2022):
“The initial nose is quite shy, but coaxing reveals a character expressing white fruit such as pear and spring flowers enhanced by pastry and citrusy notes. The palate has a suave, even mouthcoating texture and remarkable depth that is beautifully sustained by chalky salinity and a gorgeous grapefruit taste.”

Vinous — 95 Points:
“A powerful, explosive Champagne, the 2012 Brut Blanc de Blancs Celebris hits the palate with layers of exotic, resonant Chardonnay fruit. Savory, floral and earthy notes add dimension. Readers will find a dense, potent Blanc de Blancs for the dinner table.”

Anne Krebiehl MW, Falstaff:
“Bright lemon freshness sings throughout and dominates the long finish.”

Gosset (official tasting note):
“The color is golden with emerald reflections and particularly fine bubbles. The nose is fresh, with a hint of menthol spicing up the fruity aromas of pink grapefruit and frangipane. The attack is clear and fresh with a touch of lemon. This subtle complexity is enhanced by a spicy touch of candied ginger and star anise.”

Tasting Profile

Nose
Bright gold with emerald glints and very fine bubbles. Pink grapefruit and frangipane lead, with a hint of menthol, white fruit, spring flowers, and pastry.

Palate
Fresh and mouth-coating, with lemon and baked apple, tarte tatin and salted butter, candied ginger, star anise, and chalky salinity.

Finish
Long and mineral, with crisp apple, citrus, and a salty, tonic edge.

Quick Overview

Food Pairings

• Oysters, crab, and lobster
• Scallops and delicate white fish
• Roast chicken in cream sauce
• Soft, mild cheeses

Serving Note

Serve at 8-10°C in a white wine glass rather than a flute, to let the complexity open.