PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
Purlieu is the Napa Valley project of winemaker Julien Fayard, a native of Provence who learned his craft at his family’s rosé winery before working at Château Lafite Rothschild and Smith Haut Lafitte in Bordeaux, then moving to Napa Valley, where he became director of winemaking for Philippe Melka at Lail, Gemstone, Hundred Acre, Vineyard 29, and Mastery before launching his own label. Purlieu means “the edge of the forest” or “an outlying area,” a reference to the winery’s home in Coombsville and to its approach: “exploring the outskirts and navigating the boundaries of what one may expect of a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon,” with the aim of always maintaining “balance: between innovation and tradition, confidence and restraint, depth and refreshment.”
The Purlieu range includes an appellation-level Napa Valley Cabernet and a lineup of single-vineyard bottlings, including To Kalon, Missouri Hopper, Martinez, Teucer, and Sugarloaf. Sugarloaf is the mountain bottling, and critics have consistently noted its savory, taut, mineral character compared with the plush valley-floor sites. The 2017 is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon at about 14.5% ABV, made in Fayard’s signature style, “seeking textural richness and intensity” in the words of Vinous.
I couldn’t find a critic score for the 2017 Sugarloaf. For house-style context, the Wine Advocate scored the 2016 Sugarloaf 96, and James Suckling and Wine Spectator scored it 94 and 92. Lisa Perrotti-Brown of the Wine Advocate scored the 2018 93: “Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Sugarloaf comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant notes of crushed black and red currants, kirsch and black raspberries plus hints of cardamon, dried Mediterranean herbs, crushed rocks and tobacco leaf. The medium to full-bodied palate is taut with bright, crunchy black and red fruits, framed by grainy tannins and bold freshness, finishing with great length and an invigorating herbal lift.” Wine-Searcher shows a critic average of 93 across 10 reviews for the Sugarloaf bottling, and Suckling’s note on the 2023 describes “expressive and perfumed, showing aromas of blue and black fruit, spices, potpourri, violets and graphite,” with “fine-boned tannins, bright acidity and a succulent, fruit-driven finish.” For the 2017 vintage of the broader Purlieu line, the appellation Napa Valley Cabernet scored 92 from James Suckling: “Blackcurrant, black-olive, ink, nutmeg and vanilla aromas here. It’s full-bodied with firm, chewy tannins.”
By now the 2017 has had several years in bottle, which should have softened its structure, and a decant of an hour or more will help. It’s a mountain-grown, mineral Napa Cabernet for customers who like structure and freshness instead of lush, high-octane fruit, with a small production and a well-regarded winemaker. Pair it with ribeye, lamb, venison, and aged cheeses.
Purlieu 2017 Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon is produced by Purlieu Wines (winemaker Julien Fayard) in Napa Valley, California, from 100% Cabernet Sauvignon grown in Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard. About 14.5% ABV, 750ml.
No score was found for the 2017 Sugarloaf. House-style context from other vintages:
Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, Wine Advocate — 2018 Sugarloaf — 93 Points (November 2020):
“Deep garnet-purple in color, the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Sugarloaf comes bounding out of the glass with exuberant notes of crushed black and red currants, kirsch and black raspberries plus hints of cardamon, dried Mediterranean herbs, crushed rocks and tobacco leaf. The medium to full-bodied palate is taut with bright, crunchy black and red fruits, framed by grainy tannins and bold freshness, finishing with great length and an invigorating herbal lift.”
2016 Sugarloaf: Wine Advocate 96 · James Suckling 94 · Wine Spectator 92
James Suckling — 2023 Sugarloaf:
“Expressive and perfumed, showing aromas of blue and black fruit, spices, potpourri, violets and graphite. The full-bodied palate offers fine-boned tannins, bright acidity and a succulent, fruit-driven finish that is fresh and vibrant.”
James Suckling — 2017 Purlieu Napa Valley Cabernet (a different wine) — 92 Points:
“Blackcurrant, black-olive, ink, nutmeg and vanilla aromas here. It’s full-bodied with firm, chewy tannins. Lightly dusty. Nice depth of fruit and chocolaty spice notes.”
Wine-Searcher aggregate (Sugarloaf, all vintages): 93/100 across 10 critic reviews
House-style profile from other vintages; to be refined once the 2017 is tasted.
Nose
Crushed black and red currants, kirsch, and black raspberries, with dried herbs, crushed rocks, tobacco leaf, and spice.
Palate
Medium- to full-bodied and taut, with bright black and red fruit, grainy tannin, and bold freshness.
Finish
Long and structured, with an herbal lift and a mineral edge.
| Category | Details |
|---|---|
| Appellation | Napa Valley, California |
| Variety | 100% Cabernet Sauvignon |
| Vintage | 2017 |
| Producer | Purlieu Wines — winemaker Julien Fayard |
| Vineyard | Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard |
| ABV | 14.5% |
| Critics | None found for 2017; 2016 Wine Advocate 96; 2018 Wine Advocate 93; Wine-Searcher average 93 (all vintages) |
| Style / Identity | A taut, savory, mineral, mountain-style single-vineyard Napa Cabernet |
| Aromas & Flavors | Black and red currant, kirsch, crushed rocks, tobacco leaf, dried herbs |
| Bottle Size | 750ml |
Decant for an hour or more; serve at about 62-65°F.
Bottle Size: All bottles are 750ML/700ML unless otherwise noted.
21 and Over: Adult Signature Required
Your cart is empty
Start shopping
