PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
Montilla-Moriles is the lesser-known cousin of Jerez, a region in southern Córdoba whose chalky white albariza soils and fiercely hot summers produce wines in the same family as Sherry, with one important difference: the grape. Here it is Pedro Ximénez, normally associated with thick, sweet, raisined dessert wines, but vinified dry and aged under flor to make Fino, Amontillado, Palo Cortado, and Oloroso. And because the grapes ripen so fully in the heat, these wines reach high alcohol naturally, with no fortification needed.
That’s the case here. The Poley Amontillado comes from Bodegas Toro Albalá’s foundational solera, which was started in 1922 by José María Toro Albalá at the Lagar del Carmen, a warehouse that was once an electric power station. It’s a blend of wines from a solera with an average age of 35 years, 100% Pedro Ximénez from the estate’s vineyards in the Moriles Altos subzone, aged first biologically under a veil of flor yeast in American oak butts (about 15 years, according to one importer; other sources give 10), and then oxidatively for the remainder, at about 21% natural alcohol. It’s bottled “en rama,” unfiltered and unclarified, in 500ml bottles with a glass stopper. As the winery says, 35 years is “the minimum for fine Amontillado at Toro Albalá.”
The winery’s tasting note: “Very intense spicy and woody aromas are joined by fine pastry notes... Refined, beautifully long and bitter finish with aromatic wood notes.” An importer describes “a fortified wine of deep amber hue, which, when swirled in the glass, reveals a spectrum of coppery tones and aromas of spices, fine wood, a delicate varnish, and subtle notes of fine pastry, with an underlying freshness and saline quality.” Another describes aromas of “toasted hazelnut, dried fig, walnut, orange peel, and subtle saline notes,” with a palate that is “dry, nutty, balanced by vibrant acidity, deep umami richness, and an exceptionally long, elegant finish.”
Critics have been enthusiastic. James Suckling scored it 93: “This shows salted caramel, leather, cedar, almond and walnut aromas.” Wine & Spirits scored it 92: “The soft texture of this Amontillado, along with a subtle sweetness, converts it into an approachable wine, seemingly easy to understand. With air, the complexity of its flavors appears, bringing in notes of green olives and salted nuts that contrast the caramelized finish.” The Wine Advocate scored the Poley line 90, and the wine won a Gold at the Mundus Vini Spring Tasting. Sherry Notes’ reviewer called it “quite a crowd pleaser: you get the intensity of long ageing, nice polished oak but also some candied notes to make it easy to approach.”
It’s a rare, old, dry, nutty wine, with the complexity of a 35-year-old and a price far below comparable bottlings from Jerez, at a bargain for sherry fans. Serve slightly cool (12-14°C) in a white wine glass, with Iberian ham, aged Manchego, blue cheese, roasted almonds, mushrooms, and rich stews, or on its own after dinner. Once opened, it keeps for a few weeks in a cool place.
Toro Albalá Poley Amontillado en Rama Solera 35 Años is produced by Bodegas Toro Albalá in Aguilar de la Frontera, D.O. Montilla-Moriles, Andalusia, Spain, from 100% Pedro Ximénez grown in the Moriles Altos subzone on chalky albariza soils. A solera started in 1922, with an average age of 35 years, aged under flor for 10-15 years and then oxidatively in American oak butts. Naturally about 21% alcohol (not fortified), unfiltered. 500ml with a glass stopper.
James Suckling — 93 Points:
“This shows salted caramel, leather, cedar, almond and walnut aromas. From a 35-year-old solera. Pure Pedro Ximénez.”
Wine & Spirits — 92 Points:
“The soft texture of this Amontillado, along with a subtle sweetness, converts it into an approachable wine, seemingly easy to understand. With air, the complexity of its flavors appears, bringing in notes of green olives and salted nuts that contrast the caramelized finish.”
Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate — 90 Points (for the Poley Amontillado; an older bottling described “a medium amber color with green edges... a creamy nose of sweet hazelnuts, spices and a touch of smoke”)
Gold — Mundus Vini Spring Tasting
Sherry Notes:
“Quite a crowd pleaser: you get the intensity of long ageing, nice polished oak but also some candied notes to make it easy to approach.”
Toro Albalá (winemaker’s notes):
“Very intense spicy and woody aromas are joined by fine pastry notes. Refined, beautifully long and bitter finish with aromatic wood notes.”
Nose
Deep amber with coppery tones. Salted caramel, leather, cedar, almond, and walnut, with toasted hazelnut, dried fig, orange peel, varnish, and fine pastry.
Palate
Dry, nutty, and complex, with vibrant acidity, umami richness, saline and mineral notes, green olive, and salted nuts.
Finish
Exceptionally long and elegant, with a bitter-almond edge, aromatic wood, and a caramelized note.
| Category | Details |
|---|---|
| Style | Amontillado — En Rama, Dry, Solera-Aged |
| Appellation | D.O. Montilla-Moriles, Andalusia, Spain |
| Grape | 100% Pedro Ximénez |
| Soil | Chalky white albariza, Moriles Altos |
| Aging | 1922 solera; average 35 years; ~10–15 years under flor, then oxidative; American oak butts |
| Alcohol | ~21% (natural, not fortified) |
| Producer | Bodegas Toro Albalá — Aguilar de la Frontera |
| Critics | James Suckling 93 · Wine & Spirits 92 · Wine Advocate 90 |
| Awards | Gold, Mundus Vini Spring Tasting |
| Style / Identity | A rare, 35-year-old, dry, nutty, salty-caramel Amontillado at a Montilla price |
| Aromas & Flavors | Salted caramel, leather, cedar, hazelnut, walnut, orange peel, varnish, fig |
| Serving Temperature | 12–14°C |
| Bottle Size | 500ml |
Serve slightly cool, at about 12-14°C, in a white wine glass; an open bottle keeps for a few weeks in a cool place.
Bottle Size: All bottles are 750ML/700ML unless otherwise noted.
21 and Over: Adult Signature Required
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