Von Othegraven 2022 Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett 750ml

Von Othegraven has been in the same family's hands since 1805, when Napoleon confiscated and auctioned off ecclesiastical estates in the region — a genuinely remarkable 220-year continuity for a single Saar wine property. The estate is now owned by Günther Jauch, the well-known German TV personality, and his wife Thea, who took over from Dr. Heidi Kegel in 2010 and have continued the property's winemaking direction under winemaker Swen Klinger (installed in 2004) and Andreas Bart (running the estate since 2006). The couple continues to reside in Potsdam, but remains actively involved at wine presentations and events tied to the estate.

Ockfener Bockstein is one of the Saar's most celebrated VDP.Grosse Lage vineyard sites — a steep slate slope reaching gradients up to 60%, smaller than the truly extreme Kanzemer Altenberg or Wawerner Herrenberg but still genuinely demanding to farm. Grapes are gently pressed with deliberate exposure to oxygen, sedimented overnight, then gravity-fed into stainless steel tanks for spontaneous fermentation without temperature control — no forcing, just letting the fruit and the site's own character take the lead. As Vinous Media's own coverage of the estate puts it: "where the GGs are gentle, smooth, almost emollient giants, the Kabinette are electric little dynamos of energy and verve, and the estate is justly famed for its excellence in this arena." 2022 brought no Auslesen at the estate at all — Spätlese was the highest Prädikat reached that year, underscoring just how selectively this Kabinett was chosen.

Wine Enthusiast awarded 90 Points. Falstaff scored the wine 92 Points, describing "smoky aroma, strong mineral note, wet hot slate, candied citrus, mint, flint," with "a tense interplay between fruit and acidity" on the palate, "lots of traction, citrus, delicate phenolics, elegant and firm, good length," and genuine "ageing potential." A separate independent tasting from wein.plus found the wine "still noticeably reductive, somewhat yeasty and smoky" on the nose, with "light yellow fruity aromas, vegetal to herbaceous notes and some minerality," the palate showing "sweet apple fruit with present acidity, some grip and vegetal and yeasty tones, good persistence." Moselweine's own retailer notes describe "fine fruity and expressive aroma of yellow peaches and ripe mangoes" with "a slight hint of herbs," the palate carrying "accessible minerality" alongside "juicy pineapple and oranges on the finish," concluding it's "delicious now, but will gain depth with a few years." This is genuinely serious, electric Saar Riesling — real tension between fruit and acidity, from one of Germany's most historically significant estates.

Origins & Craftsmanship

Von Othegraven Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett is produced by Weingut von Othegraven, an estate that has remained in the same family since 1805, when Napoleon confiscated and auctioned off ecclesiastical properties in the region. The estate is currently owned by German television personality Günther Jauch and his wife Thea, who took over in 2010, with winemaker Swen Klinger (installed 2004) and Andreas Bart (running the estate since 2006) overseeing production.

The wine is sourced from Ockfener Bockstein, a VDP.Grosse Lage vineyard site in the Saar region of the Mosel, with slopes reaching gradients up to 60%. Grapes are gently pressed with deliberate exposure to oxygen, sedimented overnight, then gravity-fed into stainless steel tanks for spontaneous fermentation without temperature control. The 2022 vintage reached only Spätlese at its highest Prädikat across the estate, with no Auslese produced that year, underscoring the selectivity behind this Kabinett bottling. Bottled at 750ml.

Critics Reviews

Wine Enthusiast — 90 Points

Ulrich Sautter, Falstaff — 92 Points:
"Smoky aroma, strong mineral note, wet hot slate, candied citrus, mint, flint. On the palate a tense interplay between fruit and acidity, lots of traction, citrus, delicate phenolics, elegant and firm, good length, beautiful and with certain ageing potential."

wein.plus (extended independent review):
"Still noticeably reductive, somewhat yeasty and smoky nose with light yellow fruity aromas, vegetal to herbaceous notes and some minerality. Sweet, apple fruit with present acidity, some grip and vegetal and yeasty tones, good persistence."

Moselweine.shop (retailer tasting note):
"The fine fruity and expressive aroma of yellow peaches and ripe mangoes on the nose and a slight hint of herbs. Accessible minerality stretches across the palate with juicy pineapple and oranges on the finish. Delicious now, but will gain depth with a few years."

Tasting Profile

Nose
Smoky, with strong mineral character — wet, hot slate — leading, joined by candied citrus, mint, and flint, alongside yellow peach and ripe mango.

Palate
A tense interplay between fruit and acidity, with sweet apple and citrus carrying real traction, delicate phenolics giving elegance and firmness, alongside vegetal and yeasty depth.

Finish
Good length, closing with lingering pineapple and orange, and genuine aging potential — a wine expected to gain further depth with a few years in bottle.

Quick Overview

Food Pairings

• Spicy Asian cuisine
• Fresh oysters and shellfish
• Light, herb-forward salads